TALORA CABINET BOX
- Box wall thickness: 5/8” thick standard, ¾” thick plywood upgrade
- Door front thickness: 7/8” (2020 doesn’t include door front in cabinet depth, just the carcass)
- Interior: White or maple melamine standard, upgrades available
- Toe kick: 4 ½” high (already included in base height total), 5/8” thick
- Countertops:
- Quartz/granite: Approximately 1 3/16” thick (3 cm), 5/8” overhang on sides and on fronts (or 1 ½” from carcass)
- Laminate: Approximately 1 3/16” thick (3 cm), 5/8” overhang on sides and on fronts (or 1 ½” from carcass)
BASE CABINETS
- Height: 34 ½” tall, plus 1 3/16” thick countertop = 35.75” high including countertop
- Depth: 24” deep carcass, plus 7/8” thick door front = 24 7/8” deep including doors, plus 5/8” countertop overhang = 25 ½” deep including countertop
- Recommend drawers to customers
- D3’s mostly suggested in a design (allows for taller items)
- One D4 is useful – good for utensils or cutlery
- Plan for double trash cabinet – B21TRD2 (16” wide minimum)
Sink BASE CABINETS
- Standard 36” wide cabinet fits most sinks
- Many will fit 33” wide base
- Typical cabinets:
- SB36 includes a false front on top and two doors
- B36FH with full height doors (B36FH) and “no top floor” (NTF) mod, sink skirt is on the inside of the cabinet
- Farmhouse sink:
- SB36AF apron front cabinet allows for larger space to cut out for sink shape
Wall CABINETS
- Depth: 12” deep carcass, plus 7/8” thick door front = 12 7/8” deep including doors
- Above fridge: 25” deep cabinet more common (to ensure countertop butts into panel beside). Adjust depth for fridge, fridge carcass + air clearance – door front = box depth required
- IE) 25” deep fridge box plus 1” air clearance = 26” depth required. 26” depth needed minus 7/8” for front equals 25 1/8” deep cabinet box above fridge
- Staggered height cabinets require staggered depths for crown to return to wall
- Place a 1 ¼” filler overlay set between wall cabinet & deeper tall cabinet/panel to prevent handles bumping on door
- Width: Varies depending on spacing
- Ideally wall cabinets would be fairly symmetrical, with doors equally sized
- Height: Varies depending on spacing. May vary based on ceiling height, whether cabinets go to ceiling, crown height, etc.
- Coffee bar, appliance garage: 18” deep (bi-fold hardware, pocket doors, tambour – common cabinets used to hide small appliances)
- Standard distance from above finished floor (AFF): 54” up
- Standard distance from countertop: 18” up
- Typically leave 3” to 4” of space to edge of windows, identical spacing on each side
Tall CABINETS
- Width: Varies depending on spacing
- Height: Varies depending on ceiling height, and crown height
- Depth: Average 24” deep carcass, plus 7/8” thick door front = 24 7/8” deep including doors
- Adjust depth so countertop butts into gable and doesn’t hang past doors – prefer 25” deep
Corner CABINETS
Base
- 36” wide cabinet on both sides: can reduce wing widths separately
- Super corner Susan: BCS36, has to stay at 36” wide minimum to receive wood super Susan
- Killing the corner: 3” base angled filler overlay BAFOL90-3303. Cannot reduce smaller than 3” to prevent handles from hitting or getting caught on other cabinets.
- Reduces cost of corner cabinets
- Allows for larger/more banks of drawers
- No angled corners (BAC)!
- Corner drawers: Rarely sold, comes in specific size increments
- Other corner options: Lemans**, magic corner**, super lazy Susan shelves (minimum 36” wide), blind corner, pie cut
(**certain minimum size requirements needed!)
Wall
- 24” wide if inserting corner cabinet: WAC or WCC
- Killing the corner: 3” wall angled filler overlay WAFOL3__3 (__ = height matching wall cabinets)
Islands
- By code, the island cannot be moved and needs an outlet
- Columns: Can be used for support on the right and left side, extending back for overhang (BPCP3735)
- Can add electrical cutout mod (ECOC-F) on one or both sides
- Countertop supports: Can be used instead of peninsula columns for support, or with a countertop overhang wrapping around a side (CTS8x10 in 2020)
- To add electrical in drawer cabinet: Add DDD (Drawer Depth Decrease, at no cost) or EPM2 (electrical panel modification – $120 list)
- Standard island countertop depth: 39” deep countertop
- Can radius countertop to 42”
- Smaller space: 36” deep countertop
- Sometimes do vanity depth cabinets which are 21” deep, allows for more overhang
- 23” deep cabinets have same drawer depths as 24” but gain 1” space for knees
- Note: trash cabinets have to be 24” deep
ISLAND WALKWAY CLEARANCES
- Allow 45” carcass to carcass in 2020 for one cook, minus countertop overhang and door fronts, this leaves 42” of walkway space
- Allow 51” carcass to carcass for two cooks, this leaves 48” of walkway space
Apliances
Range
- Change range to 30 ½” wide
- Base cabinets butt against range in 2020 (in actuality, countertop overhang butts into range)
- When pricing, toe kick runs along the side of range back to the wall – toe kick is flush with cabinet sides leaving no gap along the bottoms
- Finish cabinet sides against range
- Range hood ventilation: Hood should be as wide as range for a standard undermount hood
- Decorative hood 3” longer on each side recommended
- Chimney style hood – try to stay back at least 2” on either side
- With standard hood, wall cabinet above range is 66” AFF
- Check range specs
- Gas ranges often need 36” above the COOKING surface to combustible material – often have to call and personally measure this
FRIDGE
- If customer doesn’t know what size, start with oversized fridge dimensions
- Width: 36” x Height: 71” x Depth: 33”
- Opening: 37” W x 72” H
- panels 27”-30” deep (30” when possible)
- Add 1” in depth for wall cabinet above fridge
- Clearance around fridge: 1” above, ½” on both sides
- Finish wall cabinet bottom above fridge (WFCB)
- Fridge often framed by two tall panels running to the floor, starting at 27” deep
- Tall pantry often fits well beside fridge, also framed with tall panels
- If panels are against other cabinets, use 5/8” thick panel
- Check fridge specs, ensure hinge has room to open
Microwave
- Always plan a spot for a microwave!
- All microwave hinges should be on the left side; open from right to left
- Check microwave specs and clearances, ensure there is room for venting and chord
- Wall microwave cabinet: Same height and depth as upper cabinets
- Includes a 15” deep shelf
- Tall cabinet with microwave opening: Microwave opening with face frame
- Microwave/wall oven combo: Use tall oven cabinet with one drawer (two drawers makes microwave too difficult to reach)
- OTR (over-the-range microwave): Plan for 17-18” tall opening that lines up with the bottom of the wall cabinets and add a door reveal bottom gap (no cost) to the wall cabinet above
- Also available as microwave drawers
Dishwasher
- 24” wide standard (also comes in 18”)
- If at the end of a run use ¾” panel for support, or a 2-3” column for a more built-in look
- Countertop runs overtop, toe kick runs along the side
- Finish cabinet sides against dishwasher
- Check dishwasher specs
- For panel ready dishwasher:
- Insert B24FH-L in 2020 and change handle placement to replicate the appearance of the door front
- For pricing insert a decorative panel of the correct dimensions for the design, and remove B24 for pricing
Cooktop
- Common sizes 30” or 36” wide
- 30” cooktop usually fits in a 31” cabinet
- Check cooktop specs
important parts and pieces
toe kick
- TK496 standard for new build
- TK696 recommended for renovations, allowing room for toe kick to be scribed to an uneven floor
- 5/8” thick
- Pricing: At the end of a run or along appliances (dishwasher, range) toe kick runs along the side to the wall, flush with the cabinet so there is no empty space notched along the bottom – 2020 does not run toe kick back to the wall, add 24” for each side
- When calculating how much toe kick, round the number up
- Comes in 8-foot lengths
- If you have a run of cabinets greater than 96” – using a 5/8” panel in place of toe-kick to avoid a seam as they can be ordered up to 120”
fillers, filler overlays, angled filler overlays
- Used to help cabinets fit properly into a space without gaps
- Walls are usually uneven, cabinets between walls will have fillers scribed to the shape of the walls and should be oversized to allow for portions of it to be cut off
- Used to help prevent cabinet handles from bumping into nearby walls or deeper adjacent cabinets
- May be useful to fill an area when not wanting to increase a cabinet to the next size (to help keep costs down)
- May be useful to fill an area when spacing does not allow for similar cabinets to be the same width
- Helps make a kitchen look complete
Fillers
- 5/8” banded material (when installed with cabinets, this is flush with the box)
Filler overlays
- Minimum size 1 ¼” wide in 2020 (this is cut down on site)
- Still order the 3” piece as this allows the filler to be scribed as needed
- Maximum size 2 ½” wide when using 3” wide filler (to allow for scribing)
- Sits flush with cabinet doors
- Includes 5/8” filler backer (banded material) plus filler overlay piece that is either 7/8” (solid material) or ¾” (melamine / UV lacquer / acrylic)
- BFOL330 for base cabinets (filler doesn’t typically run past the toe kick, won’t often need 34 ½”)
- WFOL3__ for wall cabinets (__ = height matching wall cabinets)
- With stacked wall cabinets, filler height should be the same as the combined stacked cabinet heights
- Use filler overlays between wall cabinet that butts up to a deeper cabinet beside it (e.g., fridge panel or tall pantry cabinet)
angled Filler overlays
- Minimum 3” on each side to give clearance for doors to open without handles bumping nearby cabinet
- 90° angled filler overlay commonly used to kill a corner (no cabinet sits in the corner)
- Useful to fit more/larger banks of drawers into the base
Mouldings
- Recess ¾” from sides of cabinet/panels
- Add 9-12” of moulding for each outside miter (around corners)
SOLID STOCK, STRAIGHT FLUSH CROWN
- 7/8” thick
- In 2020, use M-LR/M-CM as moulding (easier to adjust in program than M-S solid stock)
- Pricing adjustments will be made when quoting
- Order 4 1/2” solid stock so that the installers can rip it in half to create their own carrier for it. Comes in 8- or 12-foot lengths (depending on species)
- Recess ¾” from sides of cabinet/panels in 2020
Crown Moulding
- Use catalogue to calculate the height and depth needed for crown to fit into space
- To the ceiling, add carrier
- M-LR8 or M-CM8 for carrier (ORDER M-CM @ 4 ½” height for ease of installation)
- Adjusted based on ceiling height and how much carrier you want shown
- Apply carrier first in design, apply crown to carrier and adjust the “up/down” in the program
nailer
- More cost-efficient way to add crown moulding
- Less “busy” looking
- Cannot be used to go to ceiling
light valance
- Standard 1 ½” solid stock (M-S1.58)
- Recess sides ¾”
- Can sit flush with carcass front or with door fronts
- M-LRR is flush with the doors
Panels
- 5/8” thick standard for all material (except melamine, laminate, acrylic), ¾” thick standard for melamine
- 30” high standard for base cabinets so toe kick can notch underneath around the corner (some may choose to have panels be the full 34 ½” to the ground)
- Often used at the exposed end of a run of cabinets (wall, tall, or base) instead of a finished end for a more complete look – useful in renos to scribe to walls
- Often used to frame in the fridge, may also include an adjacent tall cabinet framed with tall panels
- ¾” may be preferable for free standing panel, particularly a tall panel adjacent to a fridge without support on the sides
- Panels typically sit flush with the depth of the cabinet – include 7/8” increased depth (e.g., 12” deep wall cabinet is actually 12 7/8” deep, wall panel should also be 12 7/8” deep)
- Oversize panels where scribing is needed (tall panel to floor, base panel to floor, visible panels running back to the wall – often add ½” as standard for depth to scribe to wall and height if to the floor)
