Designer Reference Guide | Zonavita

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CABINET BOX

• Box wall thickness: 5/8” thick standard, ¾” thick door material for finished interior (Melamine is double sided and UV lacquer has matching melamine on back side)   
• Door front thickness: 3/4” (2020 doesn’t include door front in cabinet depth, just the carcass)
• Toe kick: 4 ½” high (already included in base height total), 3/4” thick
• Countertops: 
  • Quartz/granite: Approximately 1 3/16” thick (3 cm), 5/8” overhang on sides and on fronts (or 1 ½” from carcass)     
  • Laminate: Approximately 1 3/16” thick (3 cm), 5/8” overhang on sides and on fronts (or 1 ½” from carcass)

 

BASE CABINETS

• Height: 34 ½” tall, plus 1 ¼”” thick countertop = 35.75” high including countertop
• Depth: 24” deep carcass, plus 7/8” thick door front and bumper = 24 7/8” deep including doors, plus 5/8” countertop overhang = 25 ½” deep including countertop
• Recommend drawers to customers
• B_3DR’s mostly suggested in a design (allows for taller items)
• One B_4DR is useful – good for utensils or cutlery
• Plan for double trash cabinet – B_2DR_RCOTF217 (17.75” wide only)

 

 SINK BASE

• Standard 36” wide cabinet fits most sinks
• Many will fit 33” wide base
• B_2D1FF_NT includes a false front on top and two doors
• B_2D_NT with full height doors and “no top floor” (NT), aluminum crossbar is on the inside of the cabinet
• B_2IDR1FF_NT with 1 false front and 2 U-shaped drawers.
  • Suggested minimum plumbing clearance is 6″ for cabinets up to 30″ wide
  • Suggested minimum plumbing clearance is 12″ for cabinets wider than 30″
    
    

WALL CABINETS

• Depth: 13” deep carcass, plus 7/8” thick door front and bumper = 13 7/8” deep including doors     
• Above fridge: 25” deep cabinet more common (to ensure countertop butts into panel beside). Adjust depth for fridge, fridge carcass + air clearance – door front = box depth required
  • IE) 25” deep fridge box plus 1” air clearance = 26” depth required. 26” depth needed minus 7/8” for front equals 25 1/8” deep cabinet box above fridge
• Staggered height cabinets require staggered depths for crown to return to wall
• Place a filler overlay between wall cabinet & deeper tall cabinet/panel to prevent handles bumping on door
• Width: Varies depending on spacing
  • Ideally wall cabinets would be fairly symmetrical, with doors equally sized
• Height: Varies depending on spacing
  • May vary based on ceiling height, whether cabinets go to ceiling, etc. 
• Coffee bar: 18” deep recommend (counter cabinets, bi-fold hardware, tambour – common cabinets used to hide small appliances)
• Standard distance from above finished floor (AFF): 54” up      
• Standard distance from countertop: 18” up
• Typically leave 3” to 4” of space to edge of windows, identical spacing on each side
  
  

TALL CABINETS

• Width: Varies depending on spacing   
• Height: Varies depending on ceiling height
• Depth: Standard 24” deep carcass, plus 7/8” thick door front and bumper = 24 7/8” deep including doors
• Adjust depth so countertop butts into gable and doesn’t hang past doors – prefer 25” deep

 

CORNER CABINETS

Base

• BPCC_1D_LS_PLN (Lazy Susan)– 36” wide only 
• Killing the corner: 3” base angled filler overlay A_FILOS_A90. Cannot reduce smaller than 3” to prevent handles from hitting or getting caught on other cabinets
  • Reduces cost of corner cabinets         
  • Allows for larger/more banks of drawers
• Other corner options: BBLC_1D_HRLS_PLN (Blind with half-round lazy Susan) and BBLC_1D_SOB_PLN (Blind with swing-out basket)
  
  

Wall

• 24” wide if inserting corner cabinet – WAC__1D or WPCC___1D
• Killing the corner: 3” wall angled filler overlay A_FILOS_A90 (__ = height matching wall cabinets)      
• Other corner options:  WBLC_1D (Blind Corner 1 Door)
  
  

 ISLANDS

• By code, island cannot be moved and needs an outlet
• Columns: Can be used for support on right and left side, extending back for overhang (A_COL_1.5 or A_COL_2)        
• Electrical Outlet Placement Options: 
  • A_FILOS_ECO_3 Filler Overlay Set with Electrical cut-out, 3” W and 8.625” D (often used beside a column as outlets cannot be cut into the columns)
  • Add DRDD_ (Drawer Depth Decrease) for electrical (leave room behind a drawer box for outlet box)
• Standard island countertop depth: 39” deep countertop         
  • Can radius countertop to 42”
  • Smaller space: 36” deep countertop
• Sometimes do vanity depth cabinets which are 21” deep, allows for more overhang
• 23” deep cabinets have same drawer depths as 24” but gain 1” space for knees
  • **note – trash cabinets have to be 24” deep
    
    

ISLAND WALKWAY CLEARANCES

• Allow 45” carcass to carcass in 2020 for one cook, minus countertop overhang and door fronts, this leaves 42” of walkway space
• Allow 51” carcass to carcass for two cooks, this leaves 48” of walkway space
  
  

APPLIANCES

Range

• Change range to 30 ½” wide
• Base cabinets butt against range in 2020 (in actuality, countertop overhang butts into range)
• When pricing, toe kick runs along the side of range back to the wall – toe kick is flush with cabinet sides leaving no gap along the bottoms
• Finish cabinet sides against range
• Range hood ventilation: Hood should be as wide as range for a standard undermount hood
• Decorative hood 3” longer on each side recommended
• Chimney style hood – try to stay back at least 2” on either side
• With standard hood, wall cabinet above range is 66” AFF
• Check range specs
• Gas ranges often need 36” above the COOKING surface to combustible material – often have to call and personally measure this
  
  

 Fridge

• If customer doesn’t know what size, start with oversized fridge dimensions
  • Width: 36” x Height: 71” x Depth: 33” 
  • Opening: 37” W x 72” H
  • panels 27”-30” deep (30” when possible)
• Add 1” in depth for wall cabinet above fridge  
• Clearance around fridge: 1” above, ½” on both sides
• Finish wall cabinet bottom above fridge (WFCB)
• Fridge often framed by two tall panels running to the floor, starting at 27” deep
• Tall pantry often fits well beside fridge, also framed with tall panels
• If panels are against other cabinets, use 5/8” thick panel
• Check fridge specs, ensure hinge has room to open
  
  

Microwave

• Always plan a spot for a microwave!
• All microwave hinges should be on the left side; opening from right to left
• Check microwave specs and clearances, ensure there is room for venting and chord
• Wall microwave cabinet: Same height and depth as upper cabinets
  • Includes a 15” deep shelf
• Tall cabinet with microwave opening: Microwave opening with face frame
• Microwave/wall oven combo: Use tall oven cabinet with one drawer (two drawers makes microwave too difficult to reach)
• OTR (over the range microwave): Plan for 17-18” tall opening that lines up with bottom of wall cabinets and add a door reveal bottom gap (no cost) to the wall cabinet above
• Also available as microwave drawers
  
  

Dishwasher

• 24” wide standard (also comes in 18”)
• If at the end of a run, use ¾” panel for support, or a 2-3” column for a more built-in look
• Countertop runs overtop, toe kick runs along the side
• Finish cabinet sides against dishwasher
• Check dishwasher specs
• For panel ready dishwasher:
  • Insert B_1D in 2020 and change handle placement to replicate the appearance of the door front 
    
    

Cooktop

• Common sizes 30” or 36” wide        
• 30” cooktop usually fits in a 31” cabinet
• Check cooktop specs
  
  

IMPORTANT PARTS AND PIECES

Toe Kick

• A_M_TK_4.5 standard for new build 
• A_M_TK_6 recommended for renovations, allowing room for toe kick to be scribed to an uneven floor            
• 3/4” thick
• When calculating how much toe kick, round the number up    
• Comes in 8-foot lengths
• If you have a run of cabinets greater than 96” – using a 3/4” panel in place of toe-kick to avoid a seam as they can be ordered up to 108”
  
  

Fillers, filler overlays, angled filler overlays

• Used to help cabinets fit properly into a space without gaps
• Walls are usually uneven, cabinets between walls will have fillers scribed to the shape of the walls and should be oversized to allow for portions of it to be cut off
• Used to help prevent cabinet handles from bumping into nearby walls or deeper adjacent cabinets   
• May be useful to fill an area when not wanting to increase a cabinet to the next size (to help keep costs down) 
• May be useful to fill an area when spacing does not allow for similar cabinets to be the same width   
• Helps make a kitchen look complete
  
  

Fillers

• Often used to help fill up a space        
• Filler overlay generally preferred!
  
  

 Filler overlays

• Minimum size 3” wide and will be the common size used as this allows the filler to be scribed as needed
• Sits flush with cabinet doors 
• Includes 5/8” filler backer to match case or ¾” filler backer to match door color. Plus 1/8” spacer and ¾” filler that matches the door color. 
• A_FILOS_3 for base cabinets (filler doesn’t typically run past the toe kick, won’t often need 34 ½”)   
• A_FILOS_3 for wall cabinets (__ = height matching wall cabinets)
• Use filler overlays between wall cabinet that butts up to a deeper cabinet beside it (e.g., fridge panel or tall pantry cabinet)

   

Angled filler overlays

• Minimum 3” on each side to give clearance for doors to open without handles bumping nearby cabinet
• 90° angled filler overlay commonly used to kill a corner (no cabinet sits in the corner)
• Useful to fit more/larger banks of drawers into the base
  
  

Mouldings

• Recess ¾” from sides of cabinet/panels
  
  

A_M_AT_

• Only available in 3/4” thick / 1.5” thick / 2” thick
• Only comes in 96”
• Recess ¾” from sides of cabinet/panels in 2020
  
  

Panels

• 3/4” thick standard for all material
• 30” high standard for base cabinets so toe kick can notch underneath around the corner (some may choose to have panels be the full 34 ½” to the ground)
• Used at the exposed end of a run of cabinets (wall, tall, or base) to finish the end for a more complete look – useful in renos to scribe to walls
• Often used to frame in fridge area, may also include an adjacent tall cabinet framed with tall panels 
• ¾” may be preferable for free standing panel, particularly a tall panel adjacent to a fridge without support on the sides
• Panels typically sit flush with the depth of the cabinet – include 7/8” increased depth (e.g., 13” deep wall cabinet is actually 13 7/8” deep, wall panel should also be 13 7/8” deep)
• Oversize panels where scribing is needed (tall panel to floor, base panel to floor, visible panels running back to the wall – often add ½” as standard for depth to scribe to wall and height if to the floor)